Building further on pre-Spring’s humancentric approach to fashion, where clean lines, high- quality materials and the consideration of function converge, Spring/Summer 2020 sends a nostalgic nod to the Danish Modern design movement, characterised by these same guiding principles.
As relevant today as ever, the soft modernism of Scandinavia plays out on a collection where cuts become looser for the warmer months, and elements of sportwear and workwear find their way into the everyday wardrobe. Looking to the era that gave us many of our modern wardrobe staples, the collection is filled with versatile pieces that remain sartorial building blocks: structured transitional jackets cut for a boxy fit from tweedy fabrics or tactile velvet are minimally detailed with practical pockets; new renditions of the ubiquitous polo shirt are imbued with nostalgic details and cut for a close fit from crisp blends; and oversized sweaters in thick ribbed knits with half-zip fastenings underpin the importance of well-made clothing.
Just like the design movement, new materials shape the collection’s styles: Samsøe Samsøe’s longstanding tradition of crafting garments from natural fabrics results in pieces that are celebrated as much for their quality as for their simple yet modern shapes.
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A trench coat for her is cut from structured linen-blend and pared-back to its purest form with gently rounded shoul- ders and raglan sleeves. Fusing workwear with streetwear, classic menswear is given utilitarian edge on cotton twill trousers, cut in a new, re- laxed shape. Sustainable fabrics and blends also celebrate the shapes of the classics: the bowl- ing shirt has an updated fit so it feels infinitely more modern, cut from soft tencel that falls in a liquid-like drape. Palazzo-style pants designed with the working woman in mind are crafted in heavy crepe with a lustrous finish. And softly tailored shirts and blouses juxtapose sleek lines with organic shapes, using these new and natural blends to reimagine traditional styles.
Purposely devoid of pattern, the collection’s singular standout is a lively bird print found in our archives and inspired by furniture designer Kay Bojesen’s iconic wooden decorations, print- ed on an ankle-grazing silk dress with shirred cuffs. Stripes move away from varsity sensibilities to take on a more nostalgic feel, and an abundance of heritage checks reference the upholstery fabrics of the mid-century movement. Touched with the era’s signature colours and rooted in nature, monk’s robe, midnight blue and desert sand are enlivened with misty rose and seaweed green.
Blurring the lines between how pieces are worn, shirts become jackets, knits become tees and trousers and shorts resemble skirts at first glance. It’s all about function — and wearing them with an air of studied nonchalance that befits the modern urbanite.